Weekending in Fowey

A guide to Daphne Du Maurier's little patch of Cornwall

Hello, I’m Aimée, a copywriter living in the Cotswolds. I write seasonal tales about British heritage, landscape & food. Subscribe for free to read my joyful little stories. I’ll pop the kettle on x

“Down harbour, around the point, was the open sea. Here was the freedom I desired... Freedom to write, to walk, to wander, freedom to climb hills, to pull a boat, to be alone.”
from Vanishing Cornwall by Daphne Du Maurier

Fowey is a picturesque little port town nestled on the Southern coast of Cornwall. It’s been loved for centuries by artists and writers, most notably Daphne Du Maurier, who made her home on the estuary. Perched at the mouth of the River Fowey as it meets the English Channel, the town has a rich maritime heritage, serving as a bustling hub for trade and seafaring adventures. Today, the cobbled streets are packed with independent shops, bars, and restaurants. It was the perfect place to spend a weekend in February.

Where we stayed

We hunkered down from the wind and the rain at The Ship Inn, one of the oldest buildings in Fowey, built by John Rashleigh in 1570. Our cosy double room overlooked the churchyard of St Fimbarrus; the bells rang every quarter of an hour (my favourite sound in the world). The Inn served up a ‘Full Cornish’ every morning for hungry wayfarers in its old-worldy dining room. In the evening, expect hearty Cornish fare - like their ‘famous fish pie’ delivered fresh from the harbour, packed with salmon, cod, smoked haddock and prawns, and washed down with a pint of Tribute.

The pub’s delightful stained glass window rivals that of any cathedral. Dating back to 1888, it depicts the ships of Fowey preparing to welcome the Spanish Armada. It was salvaged from a skip still intact in the 1960s and lovingly installed in the Ship’s dining room.

Where we shopped

Pink Lemons is a slow, sustainable fashion brand with an online shop and brick-and-mortar stores in Fowey and Padstow. Step inside into a joyous ruckus of colour and pattern. I love the organic block prints, handmade by artisans in India and reminiscent of the Cornish landscape. If you love flouncy, flattering, and feminine frocks, you’ll love Pink Lemons.

Small but perfectly formed, Shrew Books is a treasure trove situated on Fowey’s bustling Main Street. If you’re after the latest nature writing title, a book on Cornish history, or something lovely for the little ones to read, then you’ll adore this nook. Everything is curated by Kate (the lovely owner) and if she’s feeling congenial, you might even spot Bea, the bookshop’s resident cat.

Sophistication meets coastal living at Salt Society. Located on North Street (just a stone’s throw from Daphne Du Maurier’s house), this concept store offers a thoughtful selection of boutique clothing, artisanal skincare, and unique homewares. There’s also an Espresso bar serving locally roasted coffee, homemade bakes, and British wines & beers. Salt Society is run by the gorgeous Harriet, who plans to host an eclectic calendar of events for the creative Fowey folk.

What we did

We followed the South West Coast path to Readymoney Cove - a pleasant 15-minute stroll from the centre of town. It’s a sheltered spot with spectacular views across the estuary and over to Polruan hill. You can join the Saints Way walk and follow it up to the ruins of St Catherine’s Castle, an artillery fort built by Henry VIII in the 1530s.

The main ferry to Looe doesn’t run out of season but we boarded the ferry over to Polruan on a mirky, pea-soup kind of afternoon. Once in Polruan, we holed up at the Lugger Inn with a plate of salty chips, a pint of Cornish IPA, and a good book.

What we ate and drank

We were in Fowey over Valentine’s Day, so of course, it called for a Michelin-worthy meal. We headed to Appleton’s for lunch to eat our body weight in handmade artisan pasta. Chef Patron, Andy Appleton incorporates Italian specialist ingredients with ‘best of the West’ to create a sumptuous but laid-back menu.

For starters: Lavender sour cocktail
The main event: Casarecce, wild garlic peas, pumpkin seed pesto
To finish: White chocolate panna cotta, sour cherry, pistachio & black coffee

John’s stocks a fantastic range of local beers, wines, and spirits. But the pièce de résistance is The Crusty Juggler Rum. One sip of its sweet, oaky spice, and you’ll be transported to secret coves, aiding smugglers and pillaging flotsam from a shipwreck.

We also loved

Fowey Aquarium - a pit-spot to shelter from the rain. Opened in the 50s, it’s very retro and packed with unusual marine creatures native to the Cornish coast.

Havener’s for a plate of pub grub and a glass of Pinot Noir while catching the sunset over the Quay.

Fowey Artisan Market - held every month in the town hall. Packed inside, you’ll find a bazaar of makers - from sea glass artists to English vintners.